Treasure LA

Susan and Mary Sue Lead a Cooking Demonstration

Chef’s Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger of Border Grill have been fixtures of the LA restaurant scene since opening City Café in 1981. 31 years later, the Too Hot Tamales are having a bit of a hot streak. Susan appeared on Season 2 of “Top Chef Masters,” and Mary Sue was first runner up on Season 3 of the same show. Additionally, ABC recently ordered a comedy pilot set in the 1980s about the two chefs trying to make it in the industry.

The stock of the two chefs naturally fluctuates overtime, but with all of this tinseltown attention, it’s an exciting time for fans of these two veterans. A popular food truck, packed cooking classes, and on Feb. 29, fans can see where it all started with a CITY Night at Border Grill. For one night only, the celebrated chef’s will be serving eclectic dishes from their first restaurant CITY (1981-1994).

In honor of the special leap year feast, here are 12 facts I learned at a recent Border Grill cooking class.

1. Mary Sue opened a restaurant so she doesn’t have to go to grocery stores. Instead, she does her grocery shopping at the Border Grill walk-in. She doesn’t waste her time with “water, junk-filled bacon,” and instead grabs tasty slab bacon.
2. Put oil on your hands before chopping peppers so you can wash it off easier afterwards. Susan repeatedly reminded the men in the audience to wash your hands well between chopping peppers and going to the bathroom. Ouch!
3.  The importance of utilizing acid in salads. Mary Sue: “Susan looooooves acid.” Susan: “Don’t listen to her. She’s had too much to drink.”
4. Mary Sue’s ideal perfume: dried oregano and black pepper.
5. Tequila originally had 42% alcohol content, but most brands have lowered the strength over time. Disappointed by this trend, the chefs used 42% anejo tequila when making their Cranhattan. Gift idea: jar of brandied cranberries, bottle of strong tequila, and the Border Grill Cranhattan recipe.
6. The chef’s like to talk, especially after a couple of Cranhattans. Susan: “If you have a question, interrupt us.” Mary Sue adds without missing a beat, “If you can.” I could watch the chefs for hours. Susan was born for the spotlight, exuding positivity out of every pore, and it was wonderful seeing Mary Sue shine.
7. Susan hopes to utilize blue foods for a Hanukah menu next holiday season: blue corn tortillas, blueberries, and plums.
8. Mary Sue and Susan have been sending people to Anzan hardware in Little Tokyo to buy knives for so long, that there is an old, faded picture of them hanging in the store.
9.  The Too Hot Tamales have a wonderful sense of humor. Best bits of the night included barbs about Susan “giving” her husband to Mary Sue after coming out as a lesbian, as well as poking fun at themselves for excessively pushing products that were for sale at the class.
10. Both chefs learned from their parents. Both were great cooks, but froze absolutely everything.
11. Mary Sue loves the Spanish and sherry vinegar, but has choice words for others. “Those Italians think they are so great with
    balsamic. I don’t like the French either.”
12. If throwing a dinner party, put the salad in a wooden bowl and place it in the fridge with the dressing on the side. Toss in the dressing before serving.

Learning about chilis at Border Grill Cooking Class

Border Grill
445 South Figueroa Street
Los Angeles, CA 90071

Albondigas al Morita shortrib meatballs, smoky morita-tomato sauce, roasted potatoes, frisee salad, $18

There are some restaurants that elicit strong reactions in me before I ever step through the door. Red O in West Hollywood is one of those restaurants. There are plenty of reasons I’ve wanted to try the restaurant: alluring pictures of the interior designed by Gulla Jonsdottir of L.A.-based G + Design, Mexican food is among my favorite cuisines and I’m always curious to see how my favorite dishes can be reinterpreted and elevated in a fine dining scene,  and of course, Chef Rick Bayless. I’ll leave it to LAT critic SIV to tell you why consulting chef Bayless is such a draw:

“If you’re unfamiliar with Bayless, suffice it to say that he’s the best Mexican cuisine chef in the country, a favorite of President Obama’s, invited to cook at the White House for the president of Mexico the week before Red O opened. Bayless, winner of Bravo’s ‘Top Chef Masters,’ has three über-successful Chicago restaurants: Topolobampo, Frontera Grill and the new Xoco, plus his own PBS show. And, I almost forgot, he’s the author of seven cookbooks and an obsessive Twitterer.”

Wow. Quite the introduction. On the other hand, Rick Bayless, specifically his big mouth, is the reason I’ve avoided the restaurant until now. Bayless said in an interview before opening the restaurant that he was “intrigued… how the true flavors of Mexico, from central and southern Mexico, would play in Southern California” and implies that Mexican food in SoCal is not real Mexican food. While he comes off as full of hubris and ignorant of the wonderful Mexican offerings in LA, it was when he started to lash out at LA Weekly food critic/guru Jonathan Gold instead of backpedaling that I started to lose interest in him. Just when it seemed the drama had died down, Bayless did it again:

“People think differently about Mexican food in Los Angeles. People in Chicago are open to a wide variety of dishes. They are a bit more timid in L.A. — I think it’s because there’s such a tradition of California-Mexican food. In Chicago (because of the more recent waves of immigration), food is from one region of Mexico or another, and it’s not very Americanized. In Chicago, mole dishes are in every Mexican restaurant. Even ceviches. But once people eat the food at Red O, they get really excited about it.”

Ok, so Chef Bayless really does think he’s introducing authentic Mexican cooking to Los Angeles. Insulting for sure, but it meant that I really needed to see for myself if there’s something he knows about mole that Guelaguetza, Monte Alban, Gish Bac don’t. With the much-maligned door man at Red O long gone and some cocktail additions to the menu, it was finally time to see if Bayless could back up his bold words.

Red O $100 Margarita (Michael Clifford Photography)

As all great nights do, the night started with a round of cocktails.  The best margarita on the menu was the Alacran, made with Sauza Conmemorativo tequila, Veev Acai spirit, Torres orange liqueur, fresh limonada, and serrano infused syrup to add some heat to the mix.  I had a fine Manhattan with Knob Creek bourbon, Antica Carpano vermouth, and grapefruit bitters, but my favorite drink of the night was something mixologist Steven Calabro was still working on: a Mexican Tequila Manhattan. Calabro mentioned to me that he had made one for Chef Bayless earlier in the night and it was Bayless-approved. I batted my eyes, hoping he’d offer to make me one as well. It was quite good, so hopefully it will make it on the next cocktail menu.

Calabro also made me a sample of the controversial $100 margarita. Yes, it’s clearly a gimmick. But I respect Calabro for taking the challenge to make a $100 margarita seriously. He could have just made a normal margarita, thrown some gold on it, and some people would still order it just because it’s $100. Instead, the 1% margarita is crafted with care: Three tequilas (Gran Patrón Burdeos, Partida Elegante, and Herradura Selección Suprema) are joined with Grand Marnier Cent Cinquantenaire and Louis XIII Cognac. Frozen lime sorbet replaces ice cubes as to prevent dilution as you nurse the drink. The drink is normally only offered on weekends, so my weekday visit meant that there was no blood orange “caviar” available. I did get the gold and kosher salt rim, however. The drink was complex and interesting, but I’m a purist – why try to improve upon a $75 shot of tequila? It was an interesting experiment, but I’d take the Alacran over the $100 margarita anyday.

1/5th of a Red O $100 Margarita, so the Red O $20 margarita?

As for the food, it beat my expectations but nothing surprised or amazed me.  The corn goat cheese tamales were flavorful, the sopes were beautifully plated, the shortrib meatballs had that pleasant as-advertised smokiness – there were no real complaints. If it wasn’t for the inclusion of Chef Bayless’s name and his loose tongue, I would have approached Red O as another see and be seen Melrose restaurant that hired a solid chef to do good but pricey food. Instead, it appears to be trying to compete with places like Rivera, something that it just isn’t ready for (I had actually just eaten at the wonderful Rivera the prior evening). The food is better than Red O’s detractors admit, and I’m already looking forward to my next visit: a walk through the tequila vault, inviting some friends to take over the Tequila Lounge, and sipping on a tequila margarita and some bar bites. And churros. Plus, Red O really is a fun place to see and be seen. During my visit, my table noticed snowboarder Shaun White, Jenna Ushkowitz from Glee with some actor from the Vampire Diaries, comedian/host Howie Mandel, and the night’s most polarizing star: Chef Rick Bayless himself!

Red O
8155 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90046

Note: This meal was hosted

Stark Bar: A necessary LACMA stop

Reason #291 why I love Los Angeles: we are spoiled with great museums. Many of my recent Saturdays have been spent exploring  a selection of the 69 Pacific Standard Time exhibitions that celebrate the LA art scene between 1945 and 1980. My favorite thing to do after immersing myself in a museum exhibition? Grabbing a drink with a friend and unpacking what we just experienced.

Kanpachi with pineapple, guava, serrano chiles, and mint

After reading every single didactic at the Norton Simon’s Proof: The Rise of Printmaking in Southern California exhibit, I made my way to the excellent cocktail bar 1886 in Pasadena’s Raymond restaurant. After MOCA’s unfocused and  disappointing Under the Big Black Sun: California Art 1974 – 1981, I was able to armchair quarterback with a flight of beers at Little Tokyo’s Far Bar.

Purple cauliflower with caper, raisin puree, Italian flat leaf parsley

I don’t think it’s controversial to call LACMA our city’s best museum. And it’s definitely not controversial to call Ray’s the best museum restaurant in LA. Hadley Tomicki of Grub Street, Jeff Miller of Thrillist, Lindsay William-Ross of LAist, Lonny Pugh of Urban Daddy, and Kat Odell of Eater all gave shout-outs to Ray’s as one of the best newcomers of 2011.

Dry Aged Hanger Steak, forest mushrooms, black vinegar sauce and cream of leek

Four reasons why I love Ray’s and Stark Bar:
1. Location
2. Atmosphere
3. Cocktails
4. Kris Morningstar knows what he is doing

Wild Salmon, elephant mushrooms, roasted beet puree

1. Location

The area surrounding LACMA is not exactly restaurant paradise. After working up an appetite exploring the seven-building, 20-acre complex, there are few places worth walking to for a bite. With Ray’s, not only is it unnecessary to leave the campus, but it’s a place you’d want to come for dinner even if you don’t care about Surrealist Adventures of Women Artists in Mexico and the US. How many museum restaurants can you say that about?

Sweet Corn Agnolotti, hen of the woods mushrooms, and pine nuts

2. Atmosphere

The Renzo Piano-designed restaurant and bar is smartly located in the central BP Pavilion near Chris Burden’s Urban Light piece (you know the one – 10% of your Facebook friends have a profile picture of them standing among the streetlamps). Ray’s features subtle but delightful design embellishments, such as your silverware being hidden in a drawer in your table.

The adjacent Stark Bar currently tops my list of best atmosphere for a cocktail. Sitting outside at dusk (my favorite part of day), a cold drink in my hand, people watching (I talked to Jesus while he enjoying a tea on one visit), periodically catching people doing silly poses in front of the Ai Wei-Wei zodiac sculpture – it’s a little zen oasis in the center of a part of town I’m not particularly fond of.

Foie Gras and Pheasant Terrine with apple and onion compote, frisee, roasted pecan, and sunchoke salad

3. Cocktails

The cocktail menu was created by Sommelier Paul Sanguinetti and despite being fairly extensive, it’s one of those places that I’d be happy to close my eyes and simply point at the menu. The current cocktail menu is conveniently split up into sections: On the rocks, collins, stirred up, shaken up, champagne, and seasonal – which currently features a selection of hot cocktails. They also have an impressive list of cordials and bottled beer.

While I’ve been pleased with my drinks so far, it’s not a place I’d suggest asking for off-menu cocktails. The couple bartenders I’ve talked to didn’t have the experience necessary to riff on sudden cravings, but with a menu that has something for everyone, it’s not really necessary. Plus, these cocktails will kick your ass a little.

My Cocktail Oasis

4. Kris Morningstar

Chef Kris Morningstar knows his way around the kitchen. He’s been honing his skill’s all around Los Angeles: AOC, Patina, Grace, Meson G, Blue Velvet, District and Mercantile. My experience with the chef’s tasting menu was everything you’d expect (and hope for) from an acclaimed Patina kitchen: fresh and seasonal ingredients, interesting but not necessarily bold choices, and able execution. Since the “Taste of Ray’s” features items not on the constantly changing menu – “The chef will cook for the whole table a menu of our freshest ideas” - it’s not very helpful if I point out which dishes stood out. Instead, what’s important to note is that the food doesn’t disappoint.

Sticky Toffee Pudding

Every time I visit a museum, I try to leave time to stop by the café for a cappuccino and a pastry. Next time you plan a trip to LACMA, be sure to leave plenty of time to soak up some sun and atmosphere while sipping on a stiff drink at Stark Bar. As for Ray’s, that is worth a visit whether or not you are planning to enjoy a hot-wheel recreation of a bustling city.

Chocolate Mousse

Ray’s and Stark Bar
Closed Wednesdays
LACMA
5905  Wilshire Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90036

Note: This meal was hosted

"Hole in One" ($13)

I wouldn’t be surprised if by December, we were talking about how 2012 was the year of the South Bay. The South Bay has long been known for charming neighborhood spots and a scattered gems like Musha in Torrance and Jonathan Gold-recommended Pakistani tandoori spots Al Watan and Al Noor.

But 2011 was the year that our neighborhood to the South finally earned a spot on the foodie map. Chef Neal Fraser of BLD designed a menu for Strand House in Manhattan Beach, and David LeFevre of Water Grill fame opened MB Post to almost universal acclaim. Just last month, Umami Burger landed in the South Bay with an opening in Hermosa Beach. The success of these restaurants show that even travel-adverse Eastsiders will jump in their cars and head down south for the right restaurant.

Asian Pear & Arugula Salad

When I was invited to try Baleen at the Portofino Hotel & Yacht Club (owned by Seattle-based Noble House Hotels and Resorts) I decided to see what else was cooking in an area I normally overlook. I made the drive down to King Harbor in Redondo Beach, took advantage of the free valet, and was immediately impressed by the restaurant’s ambiance. Warm fireplace, menus that light-up, and other nautical-inspired details that I won’t ruin for you. Business dinners and taking out the in-laws immediately come to mind, but that shouldn’t be surprising considering it’s situated inside a “Yacht Club.”

Seared Irish Salmon ($15 half portion)

The night started off with the lovely “Hole in One” starter. Brioche, over-easy egg, asparagus, mushrooms, reggiano, truffle vinaigrette – I’d be happy starting every meal with an umami bomb like this.

Knowing that a steak was in my near future, I decided to keep things a little lighter with a simple arugula salad with Asian pear in a mustard shallot vinaigrette, along with point reyes blue cheese and candied walnuts.

Roquefort-Crusted Filet of Beef ($38)

For main courses, I went with a half-order of seared Irish salmon & Roquefort-crusted filet of beef. Chef Jesse Souza prefers the flavor of the farmed salmon from Ireland, and it sits on a bed of lemon/parmesan risotto, marinated tomato, and arugula pesto. Like most of the dishes on the menu, it’s a combination of flavors you’ve seen before, but well-executed.

The filet of beef was prepared with short rib ragout, whipped potato, asparagus, and natural jus. There was nothing especially memorable about the dish, but it was flavorful and cooked medium-rare as requested – pretty much all I ask for when it comes to a steak.

Apple Pie

The meal started strong with the “Hole in One” and ended with a bang: apple pie. It’s a lot harder than it should be to find a great pie in this city, and I just destroyed this flaky bundle of deliciousness.

Mmmm....pie

Baleen is an elegant spot in the South Bay that does the traditional steak and seafood fine dining thing well. It is not going to surprise and excite like an MB Post, but will satisfy more than most hotel restaurants in this city. Baleen is a solid option if you are looking to class it up in the South Bay or impress that Yachting enthusiast in your life.

Baleen
260 Portofino Way
Redondo Beach, CA

Note: This meal was hosted

This article originally appeared on LAist

Zucchini Carpaccio

A welcome trend in the Los Angeles dining scene is the pride in which restaurants advertise using local, seasonal, and organic product. From high-end restaurants to your neighborhood gastropub, you’ll see mentions of “Weiser Family Farm carrots” and “Pork chops sourced from Lindy & Grundy.” Home chefs will even tell you which booth at the farmer’s market they got those plump dates they are so excited about. Yet many of the same chefs and home cooks will mindlessly reach for that bottle of grocery store olive oil to cook those carefully sourced meats and vegetables, never stopping to think about where the oil came from or its questionable quality.

Fig & Olive founder Laurent Halasz wants to change that. In December, Laurent and Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil author Tom Mueller teamed up for a 4-course olive oil and wine pairing. But the night was about more than just good food and wine. It was about spreading awareness about the significance of olive oil and how great olive oil will disappear if we don’t quickly learn to appreciate it.

The dinner began with Mueller and Laurent leading a olive oil tasting. If you’ve never done a proper olive oil tasting: use your hand to heat the glass of olive oil, sip, slurp, and don’t be afraid to stick your nose in there – an oily and peppery nose is a small price to pay for picking up the nuances of a good extra virgin olive oil. Don’t forget to cleanse that palate between oils – we used apple slices.

The night continued with a cultural history of olive oil. The classic definition of civilized includes olive oil, figs, bread, and wine. Drink beer and cook with butter instead? Welcome to the uncivilized camp, you barbarian. Mueller explained how olive oil has played an important symbol throughout history: babies used to be slathered in olive oil during baptisms, and it was olive oil that would  in baths and gymnasiums.

Olive oil has played a significant role in Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. ”In Israel it is obvious that Hanukkah is connected with olive oil,” said David Eitam, director of the Olive Oil Industry Museum in Haifa, Israel. ”The famous miracle in 165 B.C., when Judah Maccabee and his brothers found a drop of oil to light the candelabra in the Temple in Jerusalem, was not soy or vegetable oil. It was olive oil, common in Israel from the time of Adam and Eve.” In addition to lighting, olive oil was used for fuel, medicine, cooking, and ablutions on priests during the biblical period. In the Qu’ran, Prophet Mohammed also drenched himself in olive oil. Other uses of olive oil throughout history includes cosmetics, preservatives, weaving, aphrodisiacs, and contraceptives.

Today of course, we are more familiar with olive oil in the kitchen. There are 200 active ingredients in olive oil, offering important health and nutrition benefits. There are also 700 different kinds of olives, giving chef’s like Laurent a great array of options. Diners at Fig & Olive were told, however, that “the clock is ticking.” Fresh olive oil should be ideally be handpicked and pressed within four hours of harvest, but no more than 12 hours. Sadly, many of the industrial olive oils we are familiar with are made with olives that have been on the ground for months. Star, a popular industrial brand of olive oil, was including in the olive oil tasting, and diners could really tell the difference. Star had an unpleasant metallic quality, but  slips by home cooks that haven’t taken the time to understand olive oil like other ingredients in regular use.

Striped Bass Papillote

The first course of the night was zucchini carpaccio, a signature dish from the chef’s mother. The buttery Chemlali olive oil from Tunisia was really able to shine in this dish.

On my last visit to Fig & Olive, I was jealous when the waiter brought steamed striped bass filet in papillote not to me, but to the table next to me. Fortunately, the dish was an option on the olive oil tasting menu.

Striped Bass Papillote

Zucchini, tomato, chickpeas, fennel, verdial olive, fresh oregano, garlic, and lemon – all my favorite things sealed in a parchment package. It was paired with the peppery Spanish Picual olive oil.

Rosemary Lamb Chops

The rosemary lamb chops were a popular choice this evening. The lamb was nice, and the smokiness of the eggplant was just right, but the excessive honey overpowered it. Green apple sorbet with citrus, Nocellara olive oil syrup, and fresh mint served as a lovely end to the meal.

Laurent praised Tom Mueller for being the first one to really articulate the problems the olive oil industry is facing. The UC Davis Olive Center  has also done wonderful work uncovering false advertising among olive oil producers. Fortunately, Mueller does more than just expose the problems. He offers resources for people wanting to find quality olive oil. He has a list of great olive oils of the world, many of them from California and tips on olive oil buying. Of course the best way to choose an olive oil is to taste it yourself, whether it is at a restaurant like Fig & Olive, at the farmers market, or if you’re lucky, you’ll find an olive oil festival – I stocked up at one event recently in Paso Robles.

Fig & Olive
8490 Melrose Place
Los Angeles, CA 90069

Note: This meal was hosted

Performers in Spiegelworld's "Absinthe" at Caesar's Palace

This article originally appeared on LAist

There are countless ways to enjoy Vegas. You can go to Sin City to escape — party hard for two days straight and get caught up in the intoxicating rush of the neon city. But after a few raging trips that test your youthful stamina, it comes time to try Vegas another way: an eclectic Vegas trip where you seek a series of fleeting moments and strive to be mindful of every unique experience.

Spiegelworld's "Absinthe" at Caesar's Palace

After you settle into your Strip-view hotel, open a few beers and savor them as you journey on foot to the Cosmopolitan hotel. Stop and appreciate the elegance of the Chandelier Bar in the Cosmo, but continue your journey to Vesper Bar by the Cosmo’s front desk. Peruse the impressive specialty cocktail menu, perhaps enjoy a Black Widow made with Fernet Branca, Deschutes black butte porter, and bourbon cream.

Your next quest is to scour the Cosmo for Secret Pizza. If you find the correct unmarked hallway, you’ll be rewarded with stellar pizza and red plastic cups of beer. Scarf down a couple slices of white pizza and finish your beer on the inexplicable log in the Cosmo lobby.

Now you’re ready for some burlesque, comedy and world-class acrobats. Spiegelworld’s “Absinthe” at Caesar’s Palace is exactly what your night requires. The beautiful women are talented, the comedy is two notches above what you’d expect in a circus tent and the awe-inspiring acrobatics will remind you that if you treat your body right, it can do anything. And if you have a thing for grandma’s motorboating and kissing young “drunk sluts,” the audience participation portion won’t disappoint. Absinthe is currently the must-see show in Vegas.

Border Grill

In case you sobered up in the alien world of Absinthe, get a taste of home at the Border Grill in the Mandalay Bay. Start at the bar where you’ll be greeted with $5 margaritas and the familiar chips and salsa of home. Be sure to save room for chocolate mousse — four types of milk blend to form a cold, creamy, mouse bursting with chunks of chocolate. Pair it with the delicious cincuenta y dos cocktail, made with horchata and orange & cafe liqueurs.

Plantains at Border Grill

Fed and fuzzy? Good. Now it’s time to call up the Spearmint Rhino and get a free limo and free cover for your group. Regardless of your views on strip clubs, a “proper” Vegas adventure requires at least a quick visit. Topless-only Spearmint Rhino keeps it clean and classy, a great stop for first-timers.

The Cupcakery

Assuming you were smart and paced yourself on night one, why not treat yourself to cupcakes for breakfast? The Cupcakery is worth a visit just to see how out of place the innocent sweetness and cheery employees are compared to the rest of Vegas.

Bun Bo Hue at Bosa 1

Continue your journey off-Strip to Bosa 1 in Chinatown for a dirt-cheap Vietnamese feast. Before you even have a chance to sit down, the waiter will inform you that they do not serve pho. That’s okay, the real reason you’re here is a bowl of bun bo hue, generously filled with pigs blood and blood jelly. Add in stellar nuong cuon spring rolls, a shrimp combo, and a glass of homemade hot soy milk, and you’ll be eating like a king for a pittance.

nuong cuon spring rolls at Bosa 1

Before the night’s festivities begin, consider spending a couple hours at your hotel’s spa. Day passes run around $25 and your body will thank you after a long soak and some time in the steam room. Use the time to reflect on the previous night’s fun, maybe have a friend help fill in a few blanks and think about what you want out of your remaining visit. Lose yourself in the zen before the storm.

Blue Man Group

Let the Blue Man Group jolt your final night into high gear. If the closest thing you’ve come to seeing the Blue Man Group is when Tobias attempted to join in Arrested Development, you owe it to yourself to see why the show has continued to delight audiences since 1987.

Signature Meatloaf at Simon

Unless you gambled all of your money away, now’s the time to treat yourself to one more great meal and hit the clubs. If money is tight, try checking if Travelzoo is offering any entertainment deals. One recent deal offered a 4-course dinner at Simon, a drink, and a VIP pass to the four Palms Clubs for only $50. I was able to leisurely enjoy Simon’s signature meatloaf, mac and cheese and the famous junk food platter, and skip the lines at Rain, Moon, and the Playboy Lounge. The only thing you’ll have to worry about is at what point do you need to step in and tell your friend that the lovely lady he’s talking to is a prostitute?

Calamari at Simon

It’s easy to try to ignore the seedier aspects of Vegas — quickly bypass the men asking if you want titties in your face before you can even get your morning coffee. Or you can try to appreciate the hustle. Interact with the city’s unique personalities. Wonder how jolly Tony ended up on that corner, spending all day and night trying to interest passers-by into going to Treasures strip club. Talk to people. Always try to stay mindful as the sun goes down. Let yourself go as the night drifts.

Venison Food Fair at Chaya Venice

Twenty years ago, Euro Asian restaurant Chaya Venice did a series of popular food fairs. The numerous Japanese fairs centered around holidays served as inspiration, but eventually Chaya Venice stopped the food fair events. As loyal TreasureLA readers know, the restaurant has brought back these fairs which feature a single ingredient. August saw a pretty good garlic menu, October was home to an uneven and slightly disappointing Dungeness Crab event, and this month it’s all about Venison.

Texas Spiced Venison Sliders

The venison menu was created by Chaya Executive Corporate Chef Shigefumi Tachibe (credited with inventing tuna tartare) and is available for dinner only one more week, ending on Dec. 11.  Tachibe chose to use New Zealand farm-raised venison because he found wild venison to be too gamey.

There are several delicious and popular ways to try unfamiliar meats in LA: sausage, burger, or grilled like a steak. Chaya Venice offers the best two of these three options: burger and grilled.

The Texas Spiced Venison Burger is topped with crispy bacon, pepper jack cheese, arugula, red cabbage, fuji apple & red pepper chutney, and spicy mayo. The full-sized burger costs $22 (we were served a slider version, to save room for the other dishes). I was a fan of the venison sliders, unlike The Savory Hunter, who had to try it without the cheese and bacon. It just goes to show how important adding a little fat can be. I wouldn’t have guessed it was deer – I’m sure I could have convinced 19 out of 20 of my friends that it was buffalo.

Roasted Venison Tenderloin with Blueberry Peppercorn Sauce ($42)

The dish that disguises the venison the least is the roasted venison tenderloin with blueberry peppercorn sauce, sauteed organic mushrooms, haricots, and chestnut puree. The venison was beautifully complemented with the rich chestnut puree, and the generous use of peppercorns made me stand up and take notice.

Pappardelle Pasta with Italian Style Venison Meatballs ($21)

If the $42 price tag is scaring you away from the tenderloin, I’d recommending the pappardelle pasta with Italian-style venison meatballs, marinara sauce, and shaved Parmesan. The unique flavors of the venison were able to shine, and the pasta was nicely executed.

Venison Chili Con Carne 'Spicy' ($26)

I was not a big fan of the venison chili con carne with chunks of venison steak and lean ground venison kidney, garbanzo and white beans, pepper jack cheese, and grilled country bread. It sounded good on paper, but there were no memorable and distinct flavors.

Shishito Peppers

Although there is plenty to fill you up on the venison menu, don’t forget that you can still order off the regular menu. The shishito peppers are always a good choice to add a little spice and crunch to your meal.

Cheesecake

Banana, Banana, Banana

Time’s running out to get your hands on a tasty slice of venison from New Zealand!

CHAYA VENICE
110 Navy St.
Venice, CA 90291

Note: The meal was hosted

Barlo at the Hotel Erwin

Complimenting Hotel Erwin’s rooftop bar High is the full restaurant Barlo, which you may have guessed, can be found on the ground floor of the Venice hotel. Replacing breakfast-centric Hash restaurant, the new “barn to belly” concept opened last month with a small plates-heavy menu by Chef Jason Wiggin. Wiggin credits Brent Hammer, formally of the Viceroy Santa Monica and Westside Tavern, as introducing him to the wonders of French cuisine, and has been making a name for himself in Kansas City hotel restaurants and Maker’s Mark Bourbon House and Lounge.

Roasted Oyster Mushrooms $6

Chef Wiggin’s fine dining background was evident early in the meal when the beautiful roasted oyster mushrooms came presented on a bed of carrot cumin puree. The Barlo kitchen takes pride in its use of local produce, so I wasn’t surprised by the bright and delicious vegetables.

House Pickled Salad $7

The house pickled salad consisting of picked beets, eggs, mache, and Redwood Hill Farm feta. I appreciated the presentation, but it didn’t do much for me flavor wise.

Barlo “Deviled” Eggs $3

On the other hand, the simple dish of beet pickled eggs, chives, and horseradish proved to be a nice way to start the meal. It helps that they’re also a lot more visually appetizing than my grandmother’s signature deviled eggs that happen to smell a bit like her moldy house.

La Granja $10, Disappear $10, La Granja $10

Although the beer list consists of a couple bottled favorites including North Coast’s Brother Thelonious and Green Flash’s West Coast IPA, I decided to sample a few cocktails created by Ryan Wingo, who you may recognize from the shuttered 8 oz. Burger Bar. The La Granja consists of corralejo blanco, local berries, lemon juice, honey, and lavender  tincture. A previous iteration of the drink used oregano tincture instead of lavender, and since Ryan still had some oregano tincture left, he let me do a side-by-side comparison. The oregano was far more interesting, but the lavender was also solid. I’m not much of a vodka drinker, but my coworker loved The Disappear, made with Tito’s Vodka, Clear Creek Pear Brandy, and house made sour syrup.

Applewood $10

My favorite cocktail of the evening, and the past couple of weeks, was the Applewood made with Four Roses Small Batch bourbon, smokey apple butter, fresh apple juice, and lemon. It found the right balance of smokiness and light sweetness.

Fried Barajas Farm Green Tomatoes $9

Another small plate hit was the fried Barajas Farm green tomatoes with tomato confit, frisee, and whipped merlot which served as a creamy salad dressing, lending adding acidity and salt to a comforting dish.

Pork Belly Buns $10

Pork belly buns with chai “bbq” and crisp onions were the next colorful and messy small plate. I usually find pork belly a bit heavy for my palate, but there was nothing to fault in this dish. The inclusion of chai was a nice touch and the crispy onions added a nice contrast of textures with the pork belly, but I’d skip this dish in the future to save room for a couple lighter dishes.

Shrimp & Grits $14

The shrimp with Anson Mills grits did not disappoint. The brown butter jus and bacon lardon added a depth of flavor to the creamy grits, which served as a nice base to the large, perfectly cooked shrimp.

Barlo Burger $13

Chef Wiggin knew he was going to need a burger on the menu at a spot like this, but he wanted to add his own twist. The result: a thick patty with a nice crust, Drake Family Farm herbed chevre, tomato marmalade, bacon caramel, and arugula. It’s a damn good burger, and the accompanying fries were top-notch as well. I can definitely see myself coming to Barlo some week night, ordering the burger, chasing it with a Brother Thelonious, and then trying to walk it off along the beach.

Chicken Burger $13

As an alternative to the beef burger, you can get a chicken burger with mint “chimmichurri,”  Redwood Hill Farm feta, and arugula. It’s always impressive when a restaurant can make a tasty chicken or turkey burger that isn’t completely dried out, and the mint chimichurri with feta added wonderful flavor, but I’d still go with the beef burger every time.

Brussels Sprouts

My favorite item under “Greens and Things” on the menu has to go to the brussels sprouts with bacon (of course), dried cherries, and tarragon. Would definitely order again.

Entrance to Barlo

It’s not easy finding the balance between pleasing hotel guests and trying to draw in a locals crowd, but Barlo in the heart of Venice Beach is off to a solid start. It’s not the sort of place you’d drive across the city to visit, but it’s going to be my new go-to spot when I find myself wanting to meet friends in this part of Venice. Next time I’m going to round up some friends, take over the outdoor patio, and share a bunch of small plates and cocktails. I suggest you do the same.

Venice Beach

Barlo at the Hotel Erwin
1697 Pacific Avenue
Venice Beach, CA 90291

Note: This meal was hosted

Strand Flight: It's remarkable how close in color they all are

Each time I stop by for a pint at City Tavern in Culver City, I walk out liking the place even more than when I walked in. Last time I checked in, I declared it my go-to place when a friend wants to grab a drink in my neck of the woods. Now, it’s gotten to the point where I check their calendar weekly just to make sure I don’t miss anything.

Tonight starting at 6 pm, they have an event you don’t want to miss: Cismontane Brewery Pint Night. The Rancho Santa Margarita brewery has been getting a lot of love from fans and critics lately, and visiting their tap room has been high on my to-do list. Luckily, their tap room is coming to Culver City tonight where you can try these buzzworthy beers that are normally only offered at the brewery.

Charcuterie plate

In addition to special access to great beers, City Tavern Pint Nights afford you the chance to talk beer with Cismontane Brewmaster Evan Weinberg. You’ll even have a chance to go home with pint glasses and other Cismontane schwag.

Just last week, I attended the Strand Brewing pint night at City Tavern. The highlight of the event was a long conversation with Rich Marcello of Strand Brewing Co in Torrance. In just over  two years, Strand Brewing has gone from home brewers in Hermosa Beach to being in a bunch of your favorite restaurants (A-Frame, Umami Burger, Tender Greens, Father’s Office, etc…). They even have over 80 restaurants on their waitlist hoping to carry their beers. Fortunately, Strand is ratcheting up their production capacity and you’ll be finding them in more restaurants.

Their flagship beer, the 24th Street Pale Ale, was also their first beer. It’s a bit hoppy for a pale, which is interesting because their Atticus IPA isn’t as aggressively hoppy as most IPAs (I had it again at A-Frame last night). My favorite beer of the night was the 2nd Anniversary Braggot. Marcello told his partner to make whatever he wanted to celebrate their two year anniversary, and he chose this floral beer brewed with 300 lbs of wildflower honey. This beer is almost gone, so if you see it, do yourself a favor and order it, and then tweet me and I’ll run over. It’s that good. They currently do not have a tasting room, but one is in the works.

Cauliflower roasted with just the right amount of curry

Be sure to come hungry, because Chef Jessica Christensen makes a mean burger to go with all the delicious beer.

Tonight’s Cismontane Beers:

Brut Du Sauvin- 10.5% ABV – A Champagne clone designed to deceive the pallet by highlighting wine like aspects of the brewing process. This beer is fermented with Champagne and Saison yeast and hopped with entirely Nelson Sauvin hops from New Zealand. Notes of Sauvignon Blanc, citrus with a slightly spicy, tart finish.

Chardonnay Barrel Aged CismonTAPS – 7.4% ABV – This beer is a collaboration with the TAPS brewers. A traditional Saison with bright and spicy notes that has been aged in Chardonnay barrels for over 5 months. Subtle hints of vanilla and butter on the nose with a smooth finish.

Smokin’ Santiago Scotch Ale – 6.1% ABV – The official release! Smoked Scotch ales are warming and hearty. Malty, smooth with mellow smoke in the aroma and a nice sweet finish. Let the beer warm a bit to get the full experience of the complexity of the malt and smoke.

Double Rainbow All The Way IPA -8.7 % ABV- This beer is complex and overwhelms the senses, leaving some wondering what it all means. Its deep red copper tone is so intense that it is only matched by the array of flavors that waft all the way across the pallet. Malt, hops, caramel, and bite, this beer has it all. Heavily dry hopped with the latest and greatest of hops, Citra. To be perfectly honest this is almost a triple IPA.

Antigua Caturra Infused Citizen -6.0% ABV- Here at Cismontane we are not only serious about our beer, we are very serious about our coffee too. So another coffee beer has been a long time coming, and why not The Citizen? I’m mean Black’s Dawn is the obvious choice so we decided instead of coffee complimenting the beer lets have beer compliment the coffee. We are extremely fortunate to be within bike ride, albeit 10 miles, of our local roaster Green Earth. This has given us a leg up in getting the most out of the roasts that we use. For this beer we chose an Antigua Caturra from Guatemala. This bold, velvety coffee will be the forefront on the nose on the beer with hints of fruit and cognac. If you pay very close attention there may even be a touch of acidity on the finish.

Upcoming Pint Nights:

November 10: Ballast Point

November 17:  The Bruery

City Tavern
9739 Culver Blvd, Culver City

Poached striped bass

As I recently mentioned, we are now in the midst of National Fig Week. I admit that these food holidays are a bit silly, but I’m thankful for this one because it gave me an excuse to finally check out Fig & Olive. Last night was the first of three nights that Fig and Olive Melrose Place is offering a 3-course Fig Week menu for $44.

Scallop papillote in fig leaf

I’m always a bit nervous when ordering off a special menu, especially on the first night. I’ve been burned a few times by new dishes on these limited-time menus that are poorly executed because the kitchen isn’t used to cranking them out (or they are just ill-conceived). Fortunately, my anxiety was unwarranted at Fig & Olive.

Pumpkin sage ravioli

The meal started with bread and three olive oils to sample. The clear favorite was the fruity koroneiki Greek olive oil with a pleasant peppery finish. For the first course, I thoroughly enjoyed the scallop papillote cooked in a fig leaf. The seared scallops were well-seasoned with lemon and thyme, and artichoke tapenade and tomato were smart inclusions.

The only dish of the night that I had minor quibbles with was the pumpkin sage ravioli. The flavor from each ingredient in the house made ravioli was able to shine: free range chicken, fresh fig, roasted pumpkin seeds, Parmesan, charmoula and aged balsamic. My quibble: the raviolis were overloaded with chicken.

Crostini

It wasn’t part of the menu, but our server insisted that we try the crostini. Left: mushroom, truffle artichoke, parmesan. Middle: copa, goat cheese, honey, almond. Right: Gorgonzola, onion, cremini. I was impressed by all of them, so you will find me in the future sitting at Fig & Olive’s bar sipping a cocktail and ordering a plate of 6 different crostini ($18).

Fig and Olive tajine

The wild striped bass poached in olive oil pictured above had a nice crust to it, and topped with the perfect amount of fig tapenade that was not overpowering but a nice complement. It sat atop garden vegetables and the server poured Mission Olive Oil infused with fig leaf to further bring out the fig flavor.

The fig and olive tajine was another solid dish. Free range chicken marinatted in Moroccan spices, served with figs, olives, and apricots. A separate dish of toasted almond, couscous, cilantro and harissa was also served with the tajine, allowing you to tackle the dish however you liked. I especially liked the vegetables that sat on top of the chicken.

Fig and walnut julep ($14)

To get in the spirit of the evening, I ordered the fig and walnut julip: Bourbon, St. Germain, port, muddled black mission figs mint and fresh citrus garnished with shaved walnut. It was refreshing for a bourbon cocktail and a nice pre-dinner drink. If I was going to have it at the end of a meal, I’d probably ask for rye instead.

Crème brûlée cheesecake with figs

I almost passed up dessert I was so full, but my server thankfully talked me into the Crème brûlée cheesecake with figs. It was not overly sweet, the sage crisp added a contrast of textures, and I ended up cleaning the plate despite claiming to be “full.”

Fig & Olive

My two favorite dishes of the night were the scallops and bass, neither of which appears on the normal menu. I hope they consider adding them to the menu soon, but if not, you still have two more nights to try them on this very reasonable $44 menu.

Fig and Olive
8490 Melrose Place, Los Angeles, CA 90069

Note: This meal was hosted